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A Word on Politics and Male Speaker Attire

What to wear in business and politics speaker attire

Politics and Attire

A few days ago I went to meet a guy who is running for U.S. Senate.  He wanted me to listen to his speech and make suggestions.

It was a pretty good speech, 10 minutes long, made for the recent primary and capable of being relevant whether he did well or poorly.  

He went through the speech twice.  I made a few suggestions that were accepted, but did not want to upset the apple cart: I was mindful that his speech writers owned the text.

After the second run-through the candidate relaxed and asked what he should wear at the “victory celebration.”

I said that his light grey suit coat that he was wearing was appropriate because it matched the snow on his roof, if you know what I mean.

I think he took that in, but then he expressed a worry that wearing a suit coat might make him look preppy.  

He is not to the manor born. He grew up in a working class town although he is now living the American Dream, pouring his own money into his campaign and having a whole lot of fun.

I congratulated him on his accomplishments (which are substantial), and reassured him that he was in good shape.  The speech was short and sweet and his delivery was on the money.

Two days later I saw him on TV coming out of the voting booth wearing faded blue jeans and a white buttoned-down shirt with the cuffs rolled up to his elbows.

I couldn’t see what kind of shoes he had on, but if they were loafers, he could have passed for a Brooks Brothers model.  

He looked preppy!

Trivial and Profound

There is something about clothes and politics that is both trivial and profound.

Of course, you’ve seen the standard male uniform: the crisp white button-down, neatly tailored dark suit, red or blue tie in a Double Windsor knot, and flag lapel pin.

This is the uniform of every male politician in the Western world, a modern marvel of sartorial science that beams reassurances of competence and conformity into the brainpan of every person in the room.

Ever seen a G-20 group photo? It’s two women, the King of Saudi Arabia and 17 guys wearing the standard stiff stuff.

Too much deviation from the norm — think Rick Santorum’s sweater vests, Barack Obama’s mom jeans and Bill Clinton’s short shorts — and an inspirational leader risks becoming an object of ridicule.

However, we are increasingly seeing our politicians in more casual clothes.

Clothes in the Spotlight

They have to dress for different occasions, like Summits or parades or touch football games.

Their wardrobe must be occasional and consciously designed to communicate to a demographic group.

This means that candidates have to know the subtle social cues of all the classes in our so-called classless society.  

Or, they have to have somebody to tell them what to wear, a Special Assistant to the President: Demographic Wardrobe Selection.

On Feb. 2, 1977 Jimmy Carter delivered a fireside chat from his West Wing study. What caught the attention of viewers that night wasn’t necessarily what Carter said, but what he wore: an unbuttoned beige wool cardigan, to stay warm after turning down the heat to conserve energy.

That month, TIME wrote that the cardigan “may prove to be the most memorable symbol of an Administration that promises to make steady use of symbolism.”

In the world of politics, and in our own daily effort to send a message about who we are, clothing is often symbolic. In Carter’s case, he was sending a message that he was not the “Royal Reagan.” Rather, he was the humble peanut farmer from Plains, Georgia.

On the other hand, Trump will forever be known for his long red tie. You will never see him in anything but a suit, unless you capture a glimpse of him on the golf course.

To Button or Not

And finally, this from a friend:

I have a serious professional question for you. I gave a talk in Warsaw yesterday and noticed that I was the only presenter who did not button up their suit jacket. Increasingly I notice that all the senior guys button up. I guess it does make them look a little tidier on stage but it also seems a bit formal and wooden to me – but if it might add a zero to my salary potential I could suffer the indignity. What do you think? Can I get away with an open suit jacket?

And my reply:

It is the fashion.  I saw it over and over on the Academy Awards show on Sunday night. Button up as you step up to receive your award. It might have to do with how tight the suits are tailored these days, and the need for the owner of the suit to show off his fitness.

Or it could simply be that the senior guys are hiding their paunches.

I have recently bought three new suits and the one I like to wear the most is the one that makes me look fit and skinny.

It can’t hurt to look like a muscled titan. Good for the wallet.